Hi, I'm Chloe Mal, head of editorial content for American Vogue and host of T...
The 2026 Met Gallow is just around the corner, and if you're anything like me, you're probably already wondering how guests are going to interpret this year's Red Carpet Dress Code fashion is art.
“Be the first to see every arrival by joining Vogue's Met Gallow live stream on Monday, May 4 at 6pm Eastern, 3pm Pacific, streaming live on Vogue.com and YouTube.”
Don't miss Fashions Biggest Night. See you on the Red Carpet. [Music] This is The Run Through. I'm Chloe Mal, and today I'm here in the studio with our wonderful co-host Nicole Phelps. Hi, Chloe.
Uh, Nicole's a big week. I feel like basically since I got back from Spring Break, the end of March, we've been in sort of a full court sprint towards the Met Gallow.
“And it's just it also is very robust event season in New York City.”
I feel like everyone's come out of winter hibernation, even though the temps remain chilly. The temps do remain chilly, but we're starting to see our gala season is commenced. I went to the Black Tie Tiffany Gallow last week, and I was like, "Oh, having to, like, multiple Black Tie dress codes is, it's a, it's tallerder." But, um, we want to talk about the devil wears product too. You were at the premiere. I was, and we have Molly Rogers, the costume designer on the show this week. She and Alice new bold executive fashion news and features editor at Vogue UK are on the podcast later this episode.
And I am very intrigued to hear what you say, because the costumes are wacky. That quote was at Merrill who gave it from the first film that they couldn't work with fashion labels, because people were afraid to loan them clothes, because of offending Anna at the time. And I guess this time was a completely different story. That is not the case now. You really see everyone. There's a lot of designer cameos in the movie, Mark Jacobs, Donatella Versace, Domenico Dolce, so there's certainly, it's a different, different approach.
But, yes, the costumes are eye-catching. Were you at the Dolce and Gabbana show? I was not when Miranda Priestley walked in. We know, but there are big overhead shots of that. And I was hoping that they would do sort of a wink and pan to Anna across the catwalk, but they did not. That was a very meta moment for all of us. Yes, now that features prominently. A lot of the movie takes place in Milan. Talk about meta. Yes. But, the premiere was overwhelming. What did you think of Red Carpet Fashion? Well, the Red Carpet itself, it was bigger than the Met's Red Carpet.
I mean, it truly, they built it around the fountain at Lincoln Center, so it was a full, like, keyhole shape to go around it. And people were on the Red Carpet for almost an hour. It was unbelievable to witness. And then you got inside, and it was, like, Epcot Center of Activation Boots from a Zillow photo booth and an elevator to a sitting in a mini version of Miranda's office to trying on clothes in the closet. It was just overwhelming. I was very intrigued to see both Merrill and Anne in Red, and then to see Emily Blunt in the scene-stealing Skeperelli Couture.
I do agree with some fashion commentary that Emily Blunt's dress looked fantastic on her, but maybe wasn't a group photo dress.
“But, yes, I thought everyone looked great. I've been loving Merrill's press tour looks. I think she's been really having fun with it.”
Her stylist Michael Erlinger did an interview with Christian about it, and they're just sort of being cheeky and going wild. She wore an amazing furry tiger print Gucci jacket earlier in the day.
I love that look. I know. And then, as you've all she leather bright, vermillion leather cape, long cape dress to the premiere with black gloves. I thought she looked fab. And Anne, I thought I looked great in custom-futile. Yeah, I really like Merrill too. It's a way to be formal, but sort of casual at the same time, and I think that's a part of our comfortable, a hard balance to strike, and I think she's doing a good job of that. I mean, it was such a big premiere. It was 2,000 people at Lincoln Center and David Geffin Hall and run from Bob Eiger to, you know, RCO, Roger Lynch, but then also, every person in the movie, which had so many cameo, including Lady Gaga.
And every designer and commentator and personality, it was just, I felt overwhelmed.
Well, I have to say that I never read the book when it came out and thanks to the book club I did. And, you know, I was bemused. I would say, is my general reaction.
I felt it was less insider-y than maybe it got credit for at the time.
And what I like about the book is that she clearly took very copious notes throughout her time working for Anna, because it is almost like a forensic accounting of the day in Anna's office in the early odds, and I thought that was really interesting.
I, I'm totally with you. It was like, we saw a very, very clear picture of what that office was like, but not what the rest of the dealings of the magazine were so much.
And to me, you know, there's a lot, I'm very interested. I'm a girl who's behind my computer all day working with copy, so the way a photo shoot on schools is super fascinating to me. So, if there's ever another expose about Vogue, I hope that's what somebody writes about. Speaking of the Vogue book club, we have our special screening of the divorce product, too, and book club conversation next week at the metrograph. Very excited. Speaking to Billy Norwich and Kate Young, both of whom worked at Vogue in the early odds. I don't know, very smart, funny cultural critics, I would say.
“I'm looking forward to that, too. In other fashion news, it has been a very big moment for high-low collaborations. In fact, I think we're in a new golden age of high-low collaborations, probably because high fashion is so damn expensive.”
And this week, we have Victoria Beckham in town from London. She's here in New York to celebrate her collaboration with Gap, thanks to Zack Posen, who made that happen. I'm excited for that. I like, I looked saw picture, a couple pictures in the Vogue exclusive, and I thought I think the Caprize look cute. Yes, in Iraq. Yes, Victoria, sort of casting her eye over all American essentials.
I'm sure the Gap hoodie with her name underneath the GAP will be a hit, and there's not only that earlier this week.
We announced that Sessley Benson, who is a very popular Danish designer, has a collaboration with Uniclo, and people who like her romantic sensibility will be happy to see it sort of reimagined in more everyday jersey materials. If you want a ruffle and you want it on a t-shirt, this is the collection to shop. Not to mention last week, Christopher John Rogers with Old Navy, I thought a lot of those pieces looked fun. Yes, I'm sure the man lost a color, the greatest colorist. Yes. And of course, Stella McCartney and H&M.
I love to hear that you still have your pieces from that collection 20 years ago. What a tribute to the staying lasting power. What does it call the user-cost ratio? I definitely got my money's worth from the debt of duty. Do you advertise the heck out of them? You know, that was a huge, huge scene.
“I remember when it happened, I think it was 2005, and it'll be interesting to see if she can stir up the same kind of enthusiasm all these years later.”
Obviously, as we've been saying, it's not a new concept, but there is a lot of hunger for pieces. Even though they're not true runway designer pieces, you can still see some of these collaboration pieces like for sale on the real real. And there is a market for them, which I find really, really interesting. I know, it's intriguing to me. I mean, I still have my dress from the Isabel Morale H&M collection that I, you know, is what 15 years ago? I love that.
So yeah, those collections really are, do feel special. Sort of markers of time, I think.
“I wear my gapped dough and stuff all summer.”
I have a great little tote that has Albert Albaaz's famous illustrations on it. And we should, I'm glad Albert came up because it's the fifth anniversary of his passing. And, you know, it's a sad, sad thing to think about, but also really intriguing that designers keep mentioning him on the runway. You know, I'm thinking about the Daniel Rosbury at Scaparelli was talking about his long van collections. And so he's, he's been on my mind lately.
So there's been so many events. I mean, poor Fran who oversees our party coverage has been absolutely scrambling. But my big event last week was Tiffany's big blue book Gala at the Park Avenue Armory.
They took over the enormous armory and turned it into basically buddy melons garden in Virginia and they had enormous flowering plants everywhere,
which then they donated to betmiddlers of New York restoration project to be planted. And Mariah Carey performed, which was very exciting. And I sat across from Connor's story, which I was very excited about. This he is charming in real life. You must charming and happy to be there, happy to be at the party, which we loved to see.
Everyone was very focused on Coachella this past weekend.
I was at David Buster's Times Square with my children, but. But I know that everyone was extremely activated about Justin Bieber bringing Billie Eilish on stage for one less lonely girl. And Madonna and Sabrina Carpenter was a very old man.
“And how about poor Madonna's clothes going missing?”
Did you see that? I know. She posted that the pieces that she were on stage that purple Leotard were stolen. I don't know if it they've been recovered yet. Oh my god. It's like the Louvre scandal part two.
Yes, because she wore them, you know, back in the day on that. I think the confessions tour. Oh my god. I missed that whole story. It's fashion history fashion and pop music history there.
Wow. I also thought it was interesting seeing how brands luxury brands used Coachella.
And I think book business also did an article about how powerful Coachella still is as a marketing ground.
And, you know, having Sabrina and Dior and Apple Cain was in Dior two very different versions of Jonathan Anderson lady. Such a big platform platform as the word I was looking for. And of course, the biggest platform of all is the Metcala less than two weeks away.
“Yeah, we're really in full Metcala prep mode here at Vogue.”
We many meetings, many many editorial planning meetings. Nicole, what are you wearing to the mat? Ooh, it's a work in progress. I'm really cutting it close. This year.
Are you going to hint to anything? It's looking like it will be an American designer. Excellent. Me too. All right. We'll be representing New York.
Very excited. And we actually just yesterday published photographs by any leave of it style by law roach, featuring members of our Metcala host committee like Misty Copeland and Alex Consony. I'd say I love the photo of Alex in this billowing mango colored blencyoga dress. That was one of my favorites.
And we also announced today. We have a big two weeks coming up because we have our book club event next Monday. Next Friday we have our pre match staff party, which we're very excited about. And then next weekend, we are doing New York City's first ever vote cafe in Soho. And I think it's going to be fantastic.
Can't wait. Very bye. Yeah, stop by. It's an ultra-priority show popping up Saturday through Monday. Very excited about the pastries.
Honies bakery are doing custom pastries for us. It's going to be great. Chloe likes them. You know, they will be good. Nicole, thank you so much for joining us this week on headlines.
We always love to hear about all of our fashion news and we'll be back with Molly Rogers.
The devil was prodded to you costume designer after a quick break. Comprehensive. Whitty. Speculative. Critical.
Insightful. Profound. Why ranging? Hopefully it doesn't take itself too too seriously. David Remnick and each week on the New Yorker radio hour.
My colleagues and I try to make sense of what's happening in this chaotic world. I hope you'll join us for the New Yorker radio hour wherever you listen to podcasts. The thoughtful. Exquisite. Just, you know, real.
So hi, Molly. Congratulations on the devil's part too. So exciting.
Take me back to when you first got the call.
What was your original reaction? I was so thrilled that I was going to get to revisit that world. I knew that I was fortunate that I had worked on the first one with Patricia Field. And that I had a, let's say, legacy with it. So I knew I was the best person for it.
“You know, it just really helps to have that historical perspective, I think.”
I mean, it does add something to what you're bringing to a project. It felt kind of like coming back within just like that, like coming back to summer camp with people that you missed. And you wanted to see again, so I was not concerned about bringing them forward in time, even before I read the script. I knew that Pat had established their DNA. So, you know, this is the editor.
This is the assistant. This is the fish out of water that it would just be about continuing that DNA in the second one.
So, I just kept saying to myself, a million girls would kill.
So enjoy it. Talk us through your CV. In case our listeners don't know, you're, of course, the woman behind and just like that, headline-making costumes, such as Carrie Bradshaw, S.J.W. W. Anderson, Pitch and Clutch. Yes.
What a win that was. I owe all of this to having worked and been friends with Patricia Field since the 80s. When I was at small, small baby, I came to New York with a dream. And I met Pat and she had a very famous store on eight street in the 80s. And it was just the intersection of social life.
Let's say that store was the internet. Now, everybody went there. And MTV had just started and we started styling. And that just progressed over the years into sex in the city and the two movies. And the first devil wears prada.
And then I never dreamed I would see the sex in the city girls again.
But with and just like that, Pat was busy doing Emily and Paris. And I wanted to do that with her. But it was great to stay in New York with Sarah Jessica and have fun. We're imagining them. But the pigeon bag.
It's funny that you mentioned that. I didn't. I wasn't aware of it. And my friend who is my date tonight at the London premiere is a very good documentary in a French guy. And he's really good friends with Sarah Jessica, Fabian.
And he was on vacation in Italy or Greece or somewhere. And he sent a picture to me and he was holding a pigeon. And I was like, have you trained a bird? And he was like, no, this is a JW Anderson bag. And I was like, well, that's a sex in the city moment.
And that's a carry prop if I've ever seen one. Because not to make this a super long story. But, you know, I found the Isle Tower bag that carry carried quite a bit. We crystaled it. And she had it in one of the movies.
“And I think maybe the sixth season when she was running around Paris.”
And I had always looked for a bag that would memorialize the city of New York.
And I would see apples and, you know, statue, they just didn't move me. And I didn't want to rat or piece of pizza. It's too corny. And when I saw that pigeon, I was like, that's a New York mascot. Let's make it famous.
And I loved what she did in that scene. Yeah. Took a piece of chewing gum out of the wing. Incredible. She really knows what to do with garments.
I love that it was a pigeon that did it for you. Honestly, I had to call them and ask them for one for myself. And I was like, I hate to beg, but I mean, guys, will you send me one? Can you take me back to working with Patricia Fields who cost you an additional film.
“Obviously, if you said, did she give you any advice for this new film?”
No, I really didn't bother her for, you know, what's your take on it? Got a little hint. Got a good idea for me. I felt like I had gotten so much from her through Osmosis in all these many, many fitting rooms over the years that I knew it just needed.
I wanted to give it my perspective. I'm sure there's a lot of her in me, obviously. I've just been by her side through so many closet scenes and shoe shots. And I just thought, you know, she wished me well. She's busy, but I just felt like it was good to interpret it on my own with my own experiences
because she has a style and I do as well for characters. I don't like to do red carpet, I like to read a script and assign a look. Not just request looks. So good.
When the trailer came out, one of the first pieces that stuck out for us was the siren red,
Valentino rock stud pumps.
“Did you know that the nostalgic heels would make such a splash?”
I'm going to give you the real story. Okay. I had gone forward to Milan where we were going to shoot some scenes. I was not there that day when they were shooting another scene and they just pop the shoes on Merrill. I had chosen another shoe. I got panicked phone calls from assistants saying that the marketing team had decided that they liked this other shoe,
which at the time I took great offense to because I knew that a marketing person didn't know anything about a rock stud.
Right.
And I did not think it was appropriate for Miranda to wear a rock stud,
“but they liked the way that it looked, but it was not character appropriate.”
So from afar, I was sending pins into voodoo dolls, let's say. But marketing, they have a different objective. They need to catch eyeballs and they don't know about carrot. Like, I was telling someone the other day, you could give most of us, especially me, a rack full of white blouses. And I could choose the one that Miranda would wear and the one that Emily would wear and the one that Annie would wear.
There are nuances, just like the two blue belts in the first movie. We know the difference.
So I, when I saw that hubbub about that shoe, I was like, I'm innocent. I'm glad if people like it because it's a callback or whatever, but if you don't like it, I understand that too. When it was quite the furlough. So great shoe. And it did what it needed to do, walk into the elevator. But there were others there. Got it.
We're talking about the process of picking up the devil's private characters wardrobes 20 years on.
“What did you take from the first film? What three lines can we see?”
Well, the, like I said earlier, the DNA for the first film is so strong. You know, a woman that a character that Merrill and Pat created, we weren't shooting a documentary on Anna, you know. It's true. They needed to create a character that didn't exist appearance wise and other reasons.
But, you know, it was obvious that a powerful woman like that would have a very strong silhouette.
She would need a lot of frills or bows and whistles. And with an actress like Merrill, you don't need to adorn them. You know, you just need to create a frame. So that was kind of my moda operandi. You know, I, I followed that rule to just go very clean and powerful and confident in all those buzzwords for a woman of that stature. And Emily, blunt character, because she's so sharp, witted, British that rotten, biting humor that we all love so much. Her costumes got to have the edge in the first movie. And we went to Century 21 all day long and scooped Vivian Westwood and Rick Owen and Margella and threw that all together for her.
She, she's the most fashion forward of the characters in the first movie. So I followed that through line.
And Andrea Sachs was not as difficult in the first movie as she was to formulate an idea in the second one. She was a fish out of water in the first movie, the end. Okay. Her transformation scene is the Chanel thigh high boot. You know, that's when she, you know, she has access to this fabulous closet. But in the second one, she's a world traveler because she's a reporter. She's been exposed to a lot. She didn't totally reject the fashion world because she's a New Yorker. And she's smart and she shops consignment stores. So she needed a real mix of believability.
And her transformation in the second one is because Nigel throws her stuff for loan from the closet. So it also had to be something her character would wear just heightened a label. Let's say. She was a bit, she was a process for sure. Speaking of the fashion cupboard, it feels like a pivotal moment in the film again. And how did you deck it out? This has been so much discussion online about that totem embroidered TV. Really. Well, that was in the script. You know, when things are referred to in the script, we try to follow that rule and set decoration had a great deal to do.
“It's really not my job to deck a closet out. But of course, they come into our room and say, what do you recommend? Who should we ask?”
Who's generous? Where should we go? No open-toed shoes? You know, rules to kind of make the eye candy delicious. There's a friend of mine that has this little picnic basket that looks like a three-tier wicker cake. I made sure you'll see that right in the middle of the table in one of the clothes adorable. Things like that that are really special that people have done their damnedest to get to us, but we haven't gotten on a character. I try to feature in the closet scene.
A scad student, which is a fashion school in the U.
There's a mannequin in the closet of something we were all in love with. A go-t-a archive gown that had Fishnet, Eiffel Tower on it, no one wore it in the movie, so we made sure it got in the closet.
“Those kind of things I think are important. Like they were on sex in the city. When she went into her closet, she was creating a moment, a magazine moment, watch Carrie style herself.”
So those closet scenes, I think, are really looked forward to and people examine them. They do. We love to hear that fashion grads are included, that's fab. I like to support that kind of thing.
My wife Streep said unbelievably that no brands want to be part of the first ever-west product.
Now, brands obviously fighting to be part of the film. How did you manage that? Let's see. I would say in the first movie, there were three design houses that said we really can't participate. We don't know what the backlash would be. For example, one totally understood Mr. DeLaRenta, who was very, very close to Anna and had no idea how this was going to be portrayed or, you know, a loyal friend. So Pat just kept saying there's a lot of clothes in the world.
And Mr. Valentino was the first designer who saw Merrill on holiday in Italy and said, whatever you need, I'm here to supply.
So that was lovely. So there was participation, but not like the second one. Where this was, we've got to edit, there's so much coming into this room. We've got to be able to take all of these it bags and figure out which one you would want to see 10 years from now. Tatily, I mean, there's been a lot of China office about editors living in the same navy jumpers and jeans every day rather than the catalogue of fashion that we see play out in the film.
“We worried about tapping into reality or did you just want to make it above all fun?”
That is such a good question. And I haven't gotten to really talk about this. In my mind, Andre Leon Talley and Carl Loggerfeld and numerous people, where are you uniform? It's true. It's easy. You are recognizable as the icon that you are. And it's a uniform. It's great. So in the beginning, early in the pre-production, I thought, I think Miranda should continue her pencil skirts and her short crop Belero jackets.
It looked great on her in the first movie. So all of that was shopped. That kind of silhouette that's just clean and streamlined.
Well, we stuck our toe in the first fitting with Merrill and it was not working. Even though it was modern designers, it looked dated. It wasn't fresh. We weren't bringing anything new to the picture. And this was my thought process, which luckily for me, Merrill is one of those people who wants to experiment, does not mind trying on an idea until we find it. You know, she thought, yeah, let's give a pencil skirt, you know, a chance again. So it was just luck that there was a skirt and a blazer there, a sport coat that had a totally different feel from everything we had we're trying on.
And the minute she put the jacket on from this company, I saw her walk differently towards the mirror. Like it was a Miranda priestly walk. And I knew and she looked at me and she was like, we found it. It's this shoulder pad. It's this cuff that I can use in the scene to exclamation point, whatever I'm talking about. So that was lucky because for a minute there, I was like, are we gonna find it?
“I mean, I read that you and Merrill collaborate to a lot on her outfits for the film and she wanted a big say in the shoulder pads, which I think is maybe the best thing I've ever heard. How involved with the other actors in their wardrobe choices.”
Everyone, I tell you, it's been my experience in my career and in fitting rooms. If an actor is collaborative and there's a healthy change of ideas and no one feels afraid to offer an idea or no one feels timid to try it. You make a better outfit and you make a better movie and everyone's like that. Merrill gave was so generous with her time of which she has none and she kept coming back again and again just honing things, honing the length of something or was it the right ear, you know, just giving us time, which is what you don't really have.
We have the way had many, many references that she wanted to share with my de...
She had not worn high heels in the princess diaries and she told us I have never worn a shoe like this. She was an innocent.
So she came to the second one extremely knowledgeable and it was helpful because she can make a fashion reference and she knows exactly what you're talking about. And Emily, I mean, she's a national treasure. She has such an instinct. I had really wanted to put this porcupine needle Rick Owen gown on her and one of the scenes where there's a birthday party. And she bravely tried it on and then we proceeded to scratch her to death, getting it off of her. But it looked incredible. If I could have figured out a way to not make her bleed that gown would have been in the movie.
“The ultimate fashion is out. What is there if there's not paid?”
The runs will be back in a moment.
Hi, I'm Rebecca Ford. And I'm John Ross. And we're the hosts of Little Gold Men, Vanity Fair's podcast for film, TV and awards lovers. And just because the Oscars are done for now doesn't mean we are. Join us every week for coverage of the biggest stories in Hollywood interviews with today's brightest stars and so much more. Listen to Little Gold Men every Thursday wherever you get your podcasts.
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“Of that, the Serudium Blue Jumper made a DIY comeback, such a nice nod to the first film in what context did you imagine Andy wielding a pair of scissors to make it her own?”
When I read the script and I closed the, you know, fade to black, closed the last page. I knew immediately if that sweater still existed, it needed to come back into this movie like that is a no-brainer.
And I spoke to the director about it. And it was the first phone call I made to the archives out at the studio.
You know, stuff disappears. You know, it's, that's the thing. You finish a movie. All of the clothes go to the lot where other productions can rent them. And it was only recently, you know, that people really started hanging on to things or studios did because they saw the value or the beloved aspect of a piece of clothing. So I called, there were three pieces in stores. They could not find Stanley's ring, props had to recreate that. And they had the sweater and it still had the cornchowder stain on it. So we just searched and searched until we found one very close, very close. And they said we can fix the color in the editing room.
And I said to Annie, you know, those pajamas that have holes at the elbows or you've just worn it to death and your friends won't let you wear it out in public, but you're not throwing it away. I said, we need to do something to this sweater. And so I went to get the tailor. And while I was leaving the room, my herd snips.
“Amazing. And she had grabbed scissors and chopped the sleeves off. And that's what I had wanted to do, but she had just done it without market.”
It was so do it yourself. But I liked it because it continued this feminine men's wear that I was trying to sneak into some of her clothing because it was a vest. I mean, we also love the amount of ties that are in the film on Annie in particular. Tell us about the tie moments. I hope that there's not too many, you know, pets original inspiration way off in the corner of the room for Andreas Sacks was Annie Hall. And that is such a strong silhouette if you're old enough to know. And today explains the waste case as well, right? Yeah. And I just, I'd love ties on women.
And you know, Andreas Sacks is a reporter and there was this image that kept coming up in my mind of old newsrooms where the guys have to rolled up in their cigars. And I just kept thinking, we need to really explore vests and ties and suspenders and whatever we can to just hopefully not knock you over the head with it.
That it's a part of her closet that's organic.
I like the nods to thrifting as well. Like Andy's Marjalla Blazer, her assistant Scaliano dress. Why was that important to you? They felt it was important to add some dialogue, giving a little hint to that. She's well traveled on her reporting gigs. And so she would stop in a city where she was doing a story and roam around and see what was at resale shops.
“And I think they wanted to not explain that, but just to give it a little throwaway line.”
That she wasn't steeped in fashion and might not know what the current it bag was because she's a serious reporter.
But she had to take away from the first experience at Runway.
And can you tell me about Miranda's insane, trees, tassel jacket? I like the little shoulder wiggle she gives to care. And I was furious that that was in the trailer. They give away so much of not locations necessarily. But clothing, it's like, save it, save it. I was devastated when I saw that little tassel shake. The tassel jacket was one of the first things I saw that I thought had a chance on Miranda Priestley in the second movie.
And I earmarked it and I showed it to Merrill and she responded immediately. She saw it as over the top and I saw it as a rarefied piece that an editor would have. Then it became apparent that there was an actual scene for it when she goes to meet this huge table of, let's say, corporate banker types.
“And they're all in their dark pinstripe and she is there in what I consider to be the thigh-high Chanel boot, a tassel jacket.”
I mean, what a piece to have amongst all these pencil pushers. I thought it was a great place for it there. And I was amazed at what she did in the elevator. I love it. I hope people enjoy it. The studio was very, very nervous about that. Wow.
As they were in the first movie, they were super nervous about her white hair.
That's crazy. They had no fashion reference who we were nodding to, poly, melon or Carmen, that famous model. And so they see it and they don't understand it. So the tassel jacket was hotly debated. And I warned Merrill and she was like, "We'll see about that." So we tested it. We camera tested it. And she was like, "No, they're going to pry it from my dead fingers. It's got to be in the movie."
I wonder how the sales are for it. I mean, I bet that's real. I love tassels. I love that. Did you have any say on the script?
And thinking also about the Rodeo Botime Amendment and the meeting to that come from you guys, it was a scriptwriter decision. You know, those conference room scenes in the movie are like a coffee shop in sex in the city. A lot of storytelling needs to be told. And that day we were shooting a scene and I was in love with these ties from a girl here in London. I thought they were so unique and they were beautiful ones.
Green ones, small ones, you know, just beautifully embroidered and glittered and sparkled and limestone. And just the perfect, if you don't want to pussy bow blouse, you could put that there.
And I had pulled them for Mr. Tucci and he was like, "Oh, you'll never get me in that."
And I knew that it wasn't really his character to do that. It's a little too far flung. But I had them on my desk on the tray and I knew they were calling the actors to a big conference scene.
“And I went to Merrill and I said, "I have a great tray if you want to pick anything up in the scene."”
And they, she did, probably, ad lib that and they're in. So at least I got them in. You got them in. And I got one of this designer's butterfly chokeers in another scene. People will see it. It's at a dinner.
There's so many fashion montage moments. Tell me how many outfits you pulled for seeing. Oh my gosh. In which Andy walks across the road with a spring and hair step, a heel boot on. Honestly, montages as much as I love them. They create chaos, despair, depression in my department.
You want the very best. It's less than a second, some of those flashes.
You need like something strong.
And I was sitting at the Fendi show in Milan and they had a lot of blue. And I knew something from that show had to happen in one of these montages. It was just so striking. And anywhere's a Fendi spring, look in one of them, very, very fast. But the other problem, although I love them, they're not on the shooting schedule usually.
It's always at the bottom of the call sheet saying, "If time permits."
So you're like at the starting gate of a horse race. You don't know if it's going to happen today. You may be waiting on a shoe from Chanel that may not be there the day that you kind of style it on the fly. You have these massive amounts of clothes for each of the characters. And then they're like, "We're going to have time today.
We're going to have enough sunlight." Or, "This is perfect. We're going to use a corner of that restaurant." And you just aren't directed on the fly and you pin it or glue it on them because it's so fast. You don't have to tailor it. But everything, when I art direct scenes like that, I always go off of what murals wear.
She determines what color or print someone else is going to be in. To the big party in fashion show moments, give your team similar PTSD.
“What does it take to pull that many extras costumes together?”
No, that you usually have time to prep. It's not on the fly.
You, of course, have the generosity of everyone in the fashion world. And you usually know ahead of time what cameos are coming in. And that is usually an organized confusion. Yeah. It's fun. The question we all want to say today.
Do you want to steal anything from set? Was it sunny to itchy? I don't think they would admit to it, but I don't think so. I don't think, I don't remember. Merrill asked for something as she was leaving. I don't remember what it was.
Any Emily, no, they didn't take anything. There was something I wanted really bad and I forgot that I wanted it. And now it's in the neather regions of Italy somewhere. What was it? I am in love with the jeweled,
encrusted tops of Mary McFadden gowns. And I like to hack off the bottom half and wear the top half, make it into like a jean jacket. And I had found one on the upper east side that was actually a proper jacket. And it was stunning.
And I forgot that I wanted it. It's a hoax. And it stayed in Italy and is in some storage, you know. It's a hoaxy making it's way back to you after this. I hope so.
Is there a piece of clothing that you wish could have made it into the film, but you couldn't get in? I hate you for asking that. One of my favorite outfits to not make it into the movie. Tell us about it.
It broke my heart. And they warned me before I went to see a cut of the movie. They were like, okay, sit down. Don't hurt us. This did not make the movie.
But when that happens and it does to every department,
“you follow it, you kill your darlings is the saying, right?”
It happens for a reason. And the sequence that this particular garment was in was on Emily Blunt. And it made the movie too long. And it was the opening sequence of the movie. And it just to make sense it went on too long.
And who wants the slow start to that movie? You know? It was in her cut with Miranda and Nigel on the red carpet in her red. And this was custom made by J.W. Anderson for Dior. He had just stepped foot into that door.
And because we were shooting a big scene at the Dior flagship store in New York on 57th street, we got access to Jonathan and his team. And I needed a gown for her. And I wasn't really concerned. I knew that he had just landed there.
And it would be his fresh take.
And maybe what he was thinking about for his first show.
So that was really exciting. And it was super top secret when we would talk to that team.
“But I was concerned because sometimes when I think of Dior,”
I think of Charlotte in both. But then when I dug a little deeper, I think of harnesses. I think of Brace. And it's Emily's Lane. So he just carried that through with this gown that was black satin and lace.
And it moved insane. And with her red hair.
I had dressed her two assistants on either side of her.
And these Richard Quinn feather balls kind of black balls.
They look like three cockroaches running through a New York hallway. The crew was going wild for these outfits. So I knew if the crew who've seen everything react, it's a keeper and a good one. So yeah, that'll be on some show where it's like what didn't make it in.
“Before we let you go, can you share any other nice anecdotes in the many, many, many fitting you've been in?”
I will say that Merrill Streep is the most generous person. I have ever worked with my whole department. We worship her. I don't know if that said enough in other costume departments about her. And Sarah Jessica Parker is a rare bird.
She will try on everything until her elbows are raw from pulling stuff over her head. She is a curious person. Other actresses, some of them go, oh, that color. It never works on me. Or that's not going to look good on my ass.
She will try it on whether it's flammable. No matter where it's from, she wants to know. She wants to know that she eliminated it for a reason. Because it was brought into the room for a reason by someone. Someone saw something in it and they wanted to show it to her and present it to her.
That is abnormal. Abnormally wonderful.
“How was it starting the new Jan fashion assistance in the film like Smone Ashki and Caleb Heron?”
Did you have a lot of fun? I did. Simone was also a process. You know, you just don't walk in the room and slide something on in everybody. Everybody goes, oh, you're genius, we found it.
She's young. She's beautiful.
My concern is that she would most likely always be behind Miranda's shoulder in a scene.
I had thought without having seen her, I had thought that we needed to do her very. What I consider to be a vogue girl. Posh, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, very. I'm in the row. I'm in this. I'm in that. It's a blank canvas. I can be anything, but it's money.
I tried that on her. She was written to be in all Tom Brown and I was like, don't do that. You're going to be sorry in 10 years. It's wonderful, but we need to be able. We need the liberty to mix things and give characters layers and depth.
So I went back to pieces of Tom Brown and younger, younger things.
“And there's a Montse dress, I think, that I found out that Taylor Swift had worn.”
But yeah, it was a process with her, but new cast members are great. You get to explore what's happening now, especially Annie's assistant, Helen. I think her name is Jen in the movie. She's cute. She is the smart one, just like Annie was.
It's like she's there for a great purpose. And we just love doing her in vintage. And lastly, we have to talk about the show stopping Pia Palo, Red Look, the mirror was. I cannot believe it turned out to be them. It was just so organic and just was supposed to be.
When we found out there was a runway gala at the beginning of the movie, the first words out of Merrill and eyes mouth when we had lunch was, there is no other color. The devil comes back and red. Okay, don't even think about something else.
Although we did try on tons of things.
But it was always going to be red on her mood board.
Some assistants had placed a lot of photos. And there was a archival Balenciaga dress or gown. And it had a feather hat. And the neck of it just looked like the most incredible frame for a white shocking hair do.
And so we called them. And he was also just landed from Valentino. Just landed just like JW. And we just implored them. Get up to running.
We need you. And they flew over twice to New York and fit her. She is the one that had the idea to make one sleeved long. And the other sleeved knot. Which is that little twist that a refined fashion person would find something
to do on their own to make it personal. And that color, the swatches they sent. I mean the reds. Oh my gosh. She looks phenomenal.
Beautiful. I loved it. And she wanted something that was malleable.
She is a greatly a contributor in a welcome contributor in fittings.
Molly, thanks so much for coming on the Shade Stay.
Thank you. I enjoyed it. [MUSIC] All right. That's it for the show.
See you next week. [MUSIC]
“The run through is produced by Chelsea Daniel, Alex DiPama,”
and Alex John Burns, with help from Emily Elias.
This episode is engineered by brand bandie and Luke Mosley, and mixed by brand bandie. [MUSIC] Comprehensive. Whitty.
Speculative. Critical. Insightful. Why ranging?
“Hopefully it doesn't take itself too too seriously.”
I'm David Remnick, and each week on the New Yorker radio hour.
My colleagues and I try to make sense of what's happening in this chaotic world. I hope you'll join us for the New Yorker radio hour wherever you listen to podcasts. The thoughtful. Exquisite. Just, you know, real.
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